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BON APPETIT
Thanksgiving - November 2004

Thanksgiving at Table with Family and Friends
Midwest Modern
It’s a fitting day of the year for a taste of the heartland. Here’s how one Chicago family serves up time-honored Thanksgiving favorites with a delicious new spin.

It may sound cliché, but at the Thanksgiving table of Dan and Naomi Sachs, what’s old is new again. All the usual suspects are here-turkey, cranberries, sweet potatoes, brussels sprouts-but more modern.

He’s the owner of Chicago’s BIN 36 restaurants, where he works on the business side. Dan’s a La Veranne-trained former chef, too, but don’t be intimidated by his background: “My food is more about heart and soul than it is about finesse,” he says. “In the end, friends are more important than food.”

The guests definitely bring a lot to the party – in this case. Dan’s business partner and wine director Brian Duncan, has finally divulged his recipe for Sweet Potato Torte, a sweet but savory side dish. Brian has been bringing it to dinners for years, but he has always refused to part with the recipe. At long last, here it is.

Brussels-Sprout Chiffonade with Poppy Seeds
Thin strips of Brussels sprouts-called a chiffonade-give the classic holiday vegetable a new look

8 servings

1 ½ pounds Brussels sprouts, halved, cored
6 tablespoons (3/4 stick) butter
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1 tablespoon poppy seeds

Cut Brussels sprouts into thin shreds. Melt butter in heavy large skillet over medium heat. Add Brussels sprouts and toss until just beginning to wilt, about 5 minutes. Add lemon juice and poppy seeds; toss to blend. Season with salt and pepper.

Tart Cranberry-Orange Sauce

Makes about 3 cups

4 cups fresh cranberries (about 1 pound)
1 cup orange juice, divided
¾ cup sugar
3 cinnamon sticks, broken in half
4 teaspoons finely grated orange peel
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1 1/2 teaspoons finely grated lemon peel
¼ teaspoons ground allspice

Combine cranberries, ¾ cup orange juice, sugar, cinnamon sticks, orange peel, lemon juice, lemon peel, and allspice in heavy large saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring until sugar dissolves. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer until berries burst and liquids start to thicken, stirring occasionally, about 6 minutes. Remove from heat and cool. Mix in remaining ¼ cup orange juice. (Can be made 4 days ahead. Cover and chill.) Discard cinnamon sticks, transfer to boil, and serve.

Sweet Potato Torte

It may look like a dessert (and it may even taste a bit like one), but this is an innovative, delicious side dish.

10 to 12 servings

Crust
2 cups flour
1 tablespoon sugar
¾ cup chilled solid vegetable shortening, cut into ½-inch cubes
2 tablespoons (or more) ice water
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 large egg yolk
1 ½ teaspoons distilled white vinegar

Filling
2 ¼ pounds medium-size red-skinned sweet potatoes (yams: about 4)
1 ¾ cups sweetened condensed milk (from two 14-ounce cans)
½ cup sugar
6 tablespoons (3/4 stick) unsalted butter, melted
¼ cup honey
2 large eggs
2 tablespoons pure maple syrup
1 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1 tablespoon salt
¾ teaspoon vanilla extract

For crust.
Combine flour, sugar, and salt in processor, blend 10 seconds. Add shortening and blend, using on/off turns, until mixture resembles coarse meal. Whisk 2 tablespoons ice water, oil, egg yolk, and vinegar in small bowl to blend. Add oil mixture to processer and blend, using on/off turns, until dough comes together in moist clumps, adding more ice water by teaspoons if dough is dry. Gather dough into ball, flatten into disk. Wrap in plastic and chill at least one hour and up to one day.

For filling
Pierce sweet potatoes in several places. Microwave until tender turning once, about 12 minutes. Split potatoes open; scrape flesh into large bowl and mash until smooth. Measure 3 cups mashed potatoes and transfer to another large bowl.
Add all remaining imgredients to 3 cups mashed potatoes; beat filling until blended and smooth. (Can be made 1 day ahead. Cover and chill.)
Preheat oven to 375 F. Roll out dough on floured surface to 13 inch round. Transfer to 9-inch round. Transfer to 9-inch diameter springform pan. Press smoothly over bottom and up sides to within ¾ inch of top edge, sealing any cracks. Add filling to dough-lined pan. Bake torte until filling is beginning to brown at edges and is just set in center, about 1 ½ hours. Transfer to torte rack. Cool 45 minutes.
Cut around pan sides to loosen torte. Remove pan sides.

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